Fire was the last thing we
expected on an African safari, but that's what we found when we arrived
earlier this year in northern Tanzania for a long-anticipated safari. We
stayed vigilant during our two-week trip, but the animals appeared
unfazed. In time, so were we. We saw firsthand new grass within days of
the passing of the fire enticing wildebeest, zebras, impalas and
gazelles to return. Our hosts reminded us that the fires foster new
growth for some of the country's most treasured grazers that, in turn,
help stimulate the flow of tourism dollars, so needed in a country where
36% of the population lives in poverty. That contrasts with scenes of
breathtaking beauty. Here is some of what we saw.
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Tanzania
( Steve Stroud / Los Angeles Times )
The guide behind the wheel of
our Land Cruiser waits for a break in the flames blocking the passage back to
our lodge in the Serengeti National Park in north Tanzania |
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| We splurged by having our own driver and naturalist, and it was well worth it. That allowed us to switch from one side to another of our off-road vehicle, the "Green Monster," for spectacular viewing. Leaving the relatively safe confines of the Land Cruiser is ill-advised in t |
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| There was no trouble spotting the zebra or any other form of wildlife in the Ngorongoro Crater, which has one of the densest concentrations of animals in Africa |
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Zebras
Near and in the Tarangire National Park,
wildlife is also plentiful. This is where we started our trip, and zebras
challenging one another in a playful fight were the first animals we spotted |
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Lion
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Lion
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Elephants
While most species of animals -- and tourists --
keep a sharp lookout for lions, elephants show little concern for anything but
their young. The entire herd is involved in protecting and caring for a baby
elephant. But the elephant's worst nightmare is not of the four-legged variety.
Poaching for tusks in this area is not the problem it is in Kenya, but
nevertheless, does happen |
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Tarangire
Treetops camp
We felt some guilt referring to this as a
safari. Although our accommodations were "tents" -- some in treetops,
others slightly elevated for views -- they were by no means of the
"roughing it" variety. We had to be coaxed out of our first treetop
lodge in Tarangire, fearing we would never again find anything as wonderful.
This 57,000-acre conservation area is dotted with giant baobab trees. At the
Tarangire Treetops camp, the tree's limbs protruded through the canvas walls
and thatched roofs. But even in this luxury, a visitor can't forget the danger
that lurks: Access to the veranda surrounding the treehouse is by ladder,
leading to a trap door that is closed at night to prevent unwanted wildlife
from straying inside. |
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Masai
youth
Many of the employees of the lodges are Masai,
who do everything from waking up in the predawn hours to light the wood-burning
water heaters for a morning shower, to accompanying jittery travelers (always
with a weapon and flashlight in hand) to get them to dinner safely. And most of
the population outside these idyllic lodges live in the harsh environments of
the Masai villages. Boys as young as 5, carrying nothing but a spear and knife,
start herding goats and later advance to watching over cattle, which is a main
source of income for the tribes |
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Masai
market
The Masai weekly markets are a must. Some money
may change hands but barter may be more likely. Most Masai still dress in layers
of brightly colored plaid and stripes and wear tire treads for shoes. |
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